Length: 26:18
Created: November 21, 2022
Hello, everyone! Today we’re going to show you how to install SuperATV’s RackBoss 2.0 Rack and Pinion on a Polaris RZR Pro XP. There’s 36 steps, but it’s easier than you may think. Let’s get started!
1) Start by removing the front wheels and tires. Then remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle. We’re using a SuperATV tie rod kit and a GDP lift so that the steps will differ slightly from a pure OEM install.
2) Remove the cotter pin and then the nut and spacer. Grab the tie rod and lift it off the bolt. We recommend taking the spacer and the nut and threading them back on so you don’t lose them.
3) Now remove the lower A-arm. First, remove the pinch bolt from the lower A-arm and the knuckle. Then loosen the A-arm from the knuckle. A rubber mallet can help break it free. Smack the A-arm from the top until it drops out of the knuckle or, in our case, the backing plate.
4) Repeat these steps on the opposite side of the machine.
5) Next, remove all the front fascia hardware. There are 8 bolts across the front of the machine to remove. Start with the outermost bolts and work inwards, then lift the front plate off the machine and set it aside.
6) If you have a front bumper installed on your machine, you will need to remove it. Our bumper has two bolts on the front side and a few on the back that needs to be removed. Hold the bumper with one hand while unbolting it so it doesn’t fall. Once you remove all the bolts, pull straight back to remove the bumper.
7) If you have a winch installed, you’ll have to remove it as well. Disconnect the wires off the winch—if you’re using a SuperATV winch, it’ll be a 10 mm nut. Once removed, take the washer and the nut and thread them back onto the post so you don’t lose them.
8) There’s 4 bolts that have to be removed to unmount the winch, two on the front and two on the back. Once the hardware is removed, remove the winch and mount together.
9) If you have a skid plate and a frame stiffener on your machine you’ll need to remove that now. There’s two fasteners for the skid plate up front and two on the backside.
10) Use a wrench to remove all 4 lower A-arm bolts using an 18 mm socket and an 18 mm wrench. After that, remove the A-arms completely. After removing the A-arms, grab the frame stiffener and wiggle it free. This can take some elbow grease.
11) Remove the four 21 mm bolts from the back of the front frame section. Once all the bolts are free, the entire front frame section will come loose.
12) There’s 4 bolts on the front of the frame section—2 on each side. Remove all four of those then remove the entire front frame section and set it aside.
13) Afterward, you’ll head to the driver’s side of the frame and find the electronic plug for the differential. Push down on the pad to release the plug. Let it lay on top of the differential for now. Be sure not to lose the rubber grommet.
14) Now remove the front roll pin from the prop shaft. Once that’s done, remove the rearmost differential mounting bolt using a 16 mm nut and a 19 mm wrench. After removing the nut, slide the bolt out. The differential and prop shaft will drop down afterwards.
15) Remove the pinch bolt holding the steering shaft to the rack and pinion and all the other rack and pinion mounting hardware.
16) Once the hardware is removed, grab it and pull it free. Detach the sway bar links on the bottom to make the rack and pinion easier to remove. After that, the sway bar will drop down and you can easily remove the rack and pinion from the machine.
17) Before installing the new RackBoss 2.0 Rack and Pinion, ensure the steering wheel is perfectly straight. Double-check after attaching the rack to the steering rod as well.
18) Now install the new rack and pinion. Again, make sure the steering wheel is straight. Slide the rack into position and prepare to reinstall the pinch bolt. Take the bolt, slide it through, and finger-tighten the nut on the bolt.
19) Take the 80 mm bolts and drive them into the driver’s side of the rack and pinion. Finger-tighten a nyloc nut onto the back of the bolt. There’s one more bolt to install on the driver’s side, then install the two shorter 75 mm bolts will go on the passenger’s side.
20) Before fully tightening any of the hardware, check again to make sure the rack is still centered. There’s a line on the rack that aligns with the steering shaft and it should be perfectly straight. Also double-check to make sure the steering wheel is still straight. After that, fully tighten the hardware.
21) Reattach the sway bars on both sides and fully tighten them, then move on to the differential. While positioning the diff, line up the pinion with the prop shaft. Align the holes and push them together at the same time. Once they’re in position, take the differential bolt and slide it into place. Then tighten the bolt finger-tight.
22) Next, take the roll pin and knock it back into position on the prop shaft and diff. Use a hammer to gently get it started, then use a punch tool to push it into place. Once it’s fully through, tighten the rest of the hardware on the differential and plug it back in. Make sure the clip snaps firmly onto the plug or it can come loose.
23) Now it’s time to reattach the lower subframe onto the machine. Take one of the 4 bolts that connect along the front section of the subframe to use to hang it. That will make it much easier as you install the rest of the hardware.
24) Install the 4 front bolts first, but don’t fully tighten any of them yet. The rear nuts are single-use nuts. It’s possible get two uses out of them, but we recommend buying a new set directly from Polaris. The part number is 7547981.
25) We’re using new nuts and the original hardware since the bolts aren’t damaged. Slide the outermost bolt in first to help hold everything up while installing the rest of the hardware. Just finger tighten the bolts for now. Once they’re all installed, fully tighten everything on front and back.
26) Reinstall any of the components that were removed, like A-arms, front cover, winch, and bumper. After that, install the new tie rods and set the toe.
27) Once everything’s back together, it’s time for the tie rods. The tie rods have the SuperATV logo on one side and a bend on one end. The end with the bend on it goes onto the inner ball and socket. Just twist it on about 3/4 of the way up. It’s right-hand threaded.
28) Take the tie rod end (it’s left hand threaded) and tighten it about 3/4 of the way as well. Then insert the tapered stud into the steering knuckle/backing plate with the tapered end down. Take a large flat washer and a large nyloc nut and slide it on the underside of the tapered stud. Finger-tighten it to hold it in place.
29) Now install the tie rod. Slide the tie rod end over the upper part of the tapered stud. Slide the misalignment spacer over the stud, then take another nyloc nut and fully tighten it. Tighten both sides. Once it’s good and tight, insert the cotter pins on both sides and wrap them around.
30) Repeat these steps for the tie rod on the opposite side then reinstall both tires.
31) After reinstalling the tires, put the machine back on the ground to work on the toe. To start, settle the suspension. If the machine has a Live Valve or Dynamix shock, turn the key on and cycle down to comfort mode. If the machine doesn’t have a Live Valve or Dynamix shock, skip this step.
32) Next, turn the steering wheel back and forth a few times to help settle the suspension. Then roll the machine back and forth a few times to make sure the suspension is fully settled before checking the toe.
33) Once the suspension is settled, check the steering wheel to make sure it’s straight and then turn the key off. If the power steering isn’t on, that will help keep the steering wheel where it needs to be.
34) To set the toe, take a measurement off the center line on the front of both tires and then do the same thing on the back side of both tires. Make sure to keep the measuring tape as straight as possible. Measure from the center of one tire across to the center of the other tire.
35) We’re going to make an adjustment on the tie rods and try to be about 5 mm toed-in. That’s a personal preference, you can obviously set it to where it’s 0 or anywhere in between.
36) To make adjustments, grab ahold of the tie rod and twist. Do that on both sides and then measure again. A larger measurement on the rear of the tires means they’re toed-in. Once the toe is set, fully tighten the jam nuts and any other loose hardware.
And that’s all there is to install SuperATV’s RackBoss 2.0 Rack and Pinion on the Polaris RZR Pro XP. Make sure you check out our other awesome Pro XP accessories and upgrades and we’ll see you on the trail.
