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How to Install SuperATV’s Trunk Bed Enclosure for the Polaris RZR PRO XP

By Sara Wines | How-To on December 9, 2022
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Length: 9:54
Created: December 9th, 2022

What’s up, guys? Today we’re going to show you how to install SuperATV’s Trunk Bed Enclosure on a Polaris RZR Pro XP. It takes less than 20 steps! Let’s get started.

A list of the tools needed to install SuperATV's Trunk Bed Enclosure on a Polaris RZR Pro XP.
Make sure you get all your tools together before you start.

Prep for Install

1) You’ll first remove the two T40 Torx bolts from the back of the machine’s bed. Set them aside for now.

One hand holds a drill and the other hand collects the bolts as they are removed from the machine's bed.
Keep track of these bolts because you will use them again

2) Next, you’ll remove the two T40 Torx bolts from the bracket inside the cab.

A hand uses a power drill to remove bolts from a bracket inside the cab of the side-by-side.
Keep these bolts in a safe place too.

3) Now you’ll return to the bed of the machine and remove the two upper push pins and set them aside. Then locate the plastic vent covers and remove the push pins from those as well. There will be two on each vent cover.

Braden uses a push pin remover tool to remove a push pin.
You will also reuse this push pin, so don’t lose it.

4) The front section of the bed enclosure will align with the two T40 Torx bolts you removed from the cab area. The back side of the enclosure will align with the first T40 bolts you removed.

Install the Bed Enclosure

Now it’s time to install the trunk bed enclosure. It’s a very tight fit, so you need to be careful so you don’t scratch your plastic.

5) Put it in at an angle, one side first. Then gently wiggle the bed enclosure until it’s roughly in place. Once it’s down, use your body weight to push it all the way forward.

Braden uses both hands to wiggle the bend enclosure into place.
This can take some finesse. Be patient.

6) If you have a rear windshield installed, you’ll have a few extra steps. Go inside the cab and press on the rear windshield to give the bed enclosure enough space to slide under the bulb seal. Then push the bed enclosure forward with your other hand. You may need to ask a friend for assistance.

Braden reaches around the back of the machine to wiggle the bed enclosure as he adjust it along the rear windshield.
This can be a lot easier with another person’s help.

You want to ensure that the bed enclosure is as far forward as possible. You will need to repeat this step for both sides of the cab.

7) Once the bed enclosure is in place, take the factory hardware and return it to its original locations. You should install the bolts just finger-tight so that you have some room for adjustment before you fully tighten the hardware.

Braden twists a bolt with each hand.
You don’t need to over-tighten these bolts just yet.

8) Now, take two provided spacers and two M6 bolts. Gently lift the entire bed enclosure up and slide the spacers underneath the bed enclosure, aligned with the factory holes. Gently lower the bed enclosure back down.

A pair of hands lifts the bed enclosure and slides a spacer underneath.
This looks harder than it actually is. You can feel where the hole is, which makes it easier to align the spacer.

9) Slide the bolts into the holes and get it lined up. Give them a few turns to make sure they hold, but don’t tighten them too much.

Two hands twist a bolt into the right side of the bed enclosure.
Once again, finger-tight will do.

10) Start two more M6 bolts and insert them into the holes in the windshield bracket, through the holes in the trunk enclosure, and into the factory holes. Finger-tighten these bolts as well.

One hand holds a bolt in the palm while the other twists a similar bolt into place on the bracket along the rear windshield.
“Finger-tight” is the name of the game at this stage.

You may need to adjust the windshield, because it may apply some pressure to the bed enclosure. If you have difficult with this, you can loosen the bolts connecting the bracket to the rear windshield. You may not need to do this, but it is an option.

11) Check the bolts for straightness with a ratchet before you fully tighten them. You can tell if the bolts are aligned with the holes based on how difficult they are to tighten with the ratchet. Once you’ve confirmed they’re straight, go ahead and tighten them completely.

Braden fully tightens the bolts with a ratchet.
You could technically tighten the bolts all the way with the ratchet, but it’s faster to follow up with a drill. Your wrists will thank you.

12) Now you can return to the rear of the machine and fully tighten that hardware as well.

13) Open the trunk enclosure to install the struts. You will need both struts and four non-flanged head Nyloc nuts. Align a strut with the top hole in the lid and then attach the other end of the strut to the bracket inside the bed enclosure. Do the same thing on the other side.

Braden slides the left-hand strut into place.
This step is way easier than it looks. Just be careful not to bump the bed enclosure with your head before you have the bolts on.

14) Install all four nuts onto the end of each strut on the opposite side of the bracket to hold the strut in place. Finger tighten them, and once they’re all in place, you can go ahead and fully tighten all four nuts.

A man uses two wrenches to tighten the bolts on the struts where they connect to the lid of the bed enclosure.
These don’t have to be ultra-tight since the struts won’t be in use will you’re riding. As tight as you can get them by hand will work just fine.

15) Take the remaining hardware, which should be four bolts, four Nyloc nuts, and four washers. Place the bolts into the holes inside the bed enclosure. There should be four holes inside.

Braden drops bolts into the holes in the bed enclosure.
It may seem counter-intuitive, but you really do just drop the bolts in the factory holes.

16) Install the washers, then the Nyloc nuts from underneath the bed. You should have enough room to hold the bolt with one hand and the washer and nut with the other. Again, finger-tighten these nuts to hold them in place. Do this for all four bolts.

Braden takes a really awkward position to tighten the bolts under the body of the machine.
Again, a friend would be really helpful right about now.

17) Now you can fully tighten all four bolts, using a wrench to hold the bolt steady and a drill to tighten the nut.

18) Finally, you will reinstall the vent covers. Slide them back into their original positions and then return the push pins to their locations.

Braden slides the vent cover back into place.
The vents go back on easily with the factory push pins.

Test It Out!

Once you’ve tightened everything down and returned the removed parts, it’s time to test your installation. The the provided key and lock the bed enclosure closed. Then unlock the bed and press the button. The trunk enclosure should open automatically when you press the button.

Press a button and the trunk bed enclosure opens right up!
Wow! Would ya look at that!

Adjusting the Latch

If you ever need to, there is a bolt behind the latching mechanism that controls how tightly the lock will latch. When you’re closing the bed enclosure, it should take quite a bit of force to lock it down securely. If you start to lose the firm close, you can adjust the bolt to help it pinch the bracket again.

You’re Done!

That’s all there is to install SuperATV’s Trunk Bed Enclosure on a Polaris RZR Pro XP. Don’t forget to check out our other high-quality accessories for your Pro XP. We’ll see you on the trail!

The SuperATV logo glitches and flashes in a stylized way over the fully installed trunk bed enclosure on the Polaris RZR Pro XP.
Now that looks really snazzy.
RELATED CONTENT: installation262 Polaris RZR PRO XP26
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