Length: 43:11
Created: August 26, 2020
Do you have steering radius issues on your Ranger 1000? Well SuperATV has the fix and today we’re going to show you how to install our RIDE System Rear Steer.
[00:15] First, remove the rear wheels and tires. Remove the cotter pin and use a 27 mm socket to remove the axle nut. Make sure to get the washers too. Use a 15 mm wrench to remove the brake caliper hardware. Slide the caliper off and start removing the brake line hardware. We’ve remove the A-arms on our machine before, so we may have different hardware than you.
Remove the hub and set it aside. Disconnect the upper and lower arm hardware. Use the impact on the nut and put a wrench on the head of the bolt to make it a little bit easier. Remove the nut off the shock bolt and the sway bar link. Now, remove the shock bolt. Pick up on it and get the bushing off the sway bar here. Sometimes they may be a little bit tight. This one’s extra tight so we’re going to pry it off.
Grab the sway bar and pick up on it to get it out of the way. This allows the suspension to drop. Pull out the upper A-arm bolt that secures it to the knuckle. Let it come down like that. Flip the caliper up into a good position out of the way.
Remove the lower bolt and the knuckle, then slide the hardware back through. Pick up on the upper A-arm and you can pull the axle right out and set it aside. Then continue to remove all the hardware. Remove all the A-arm bolts and get them removed.
Next, we’re going to tie the shock up out of the way just to make it easier to get to our A-arm bolts with the impact. Now we can slide right in here with our impact.
Now that all of our arm hardware is loosened and the nuts removed, remove the A-arms and cut the strap loose. Remove the upper arm now and just repeat all the same steps for the opposite side.
[04:32] Once everything’s tore down, we’ll start pressing our ball joints into the lower A-arm as well as our knuckle. We’ll take our ball joint, install it just like this so the stud is facing downward, and press it into the arm. Once you have it installed, it should look like this so that your stud is facing away form your shock mount as well as your sway bar mount.
Slide the snap ring on. Make sure it’s seated down in the groove. You may have to take a flat head screwdriver and give it a quick tap just like that. Look around all the way to make sure it’s seated properly.
Next we’ll glue the boot on. Take the glue and put a good amount of glue all the way around where the ball joint boot is going to lay. Make sure you get a good even coat. This dries pretty fast so you want to really work it in there. Slide the boot over the stud and make sure you’re wearing latex gloves. Make sure the boot is sealed all the way around then hurry and wipe any excess off. Just repeat the same step for the opposite side lower A-arm.
[06:20] Now we’ll remove the wheel bearing from the factory bearing carrier. Remove the snap ring then find something to push the bearing out. This cutout on our plate is perfect for a wheel bearing. Make sure you get it centered up perfectly. Then we’ll find something that sits on the inner race, make sure everything’s centered then press the bearing out.
Make sure you catch the wheel bearing when it comes out otherwise it could get damaged. Check to makes sure it’s not worn out. If it is, now’s a good time to upgrade. You can purchase bearings from SuperATV.com.
Since we’re already at the press, we’ll get our factory knuckle out of the way and grab our new SuperATV one. Before you install a bearing, make sure you get it good and clean in here. From time to time, there can be just a little bit of powder coat in here and that will hang the bearing up. Just take a piece of sandpaper and clean it out. Once it’s clean, you’re ready to install.
With the new bearing carrier/knuckle, get the bearing started straight and make sure everything is flat. Now press it in and make sure everything goes in straight. Press it down as far as you can until the snap ring groove is visible. We’ve got a little bit of powder coat in the groove so we’re going to take a pick and clean it out. Then put the snap ring back in.
Now we’re going to press our ball joint into our knuckle here. Make sure the ball joint goes in like this so the stud faces away form the center. For this one, you’ll want to use a standard style hand ball joint press. You can get one of these at pretty much any automotive store. Some will let you borrow or rent them too.
Make sure everything is straight here. Once you have your press tools on, take an impact and zip this ball joint in. Take the snap ring and make sure it’s lined up in the groove, then take a flathead screwdriver and push on it a little bit. Make sure it’s seated all the way into the snap ring groove. You may have to give it a couple little taps.
Now put the ball joint boot on. Get it started onto the stud. Then take the clue and go all the way around. Slide the boot down then wipe off any excess. Then repeat these steps for the opposite side.
[13:14] Now we’re going to install our bushings into our arms. We’re reusing our stock bushings. Get the bushings lined up and give them a couple taps. You can use a socket to get it fully seated. Flip it over and do the same thing. Take the sleeve and get it fully seated as well. Take the wear plates and pop them right into place. Install the rest of your bushings the same way. Makes sure you put the 90 degree zerks on your lower arms and straight zerks on the upper arms.
[14:48] Now we’re ready to get the A-arms installed on the machine. Grab the passenger side upper A-arm. We know this is the passenger side because of our brake line here. You see the holes are facing towards the rear. Slide it though the shock. Make sure that the brake line is up on top of the A-arm like this. Makes sure the upper and lower, rearmost bolts have the threads facing towards the rear of the machine.
Once we have the upper A-arm installed, we’ll get a strap and tie it up out of the way along with the shock. This will make installing the lower A-arm and axle easier. Again, make sure the threads fact towards the rea of the machine. Just let the arm hang. We’re not going to put any nuts on yet.
Next thing we’ll do is grab our axle. I like to make sure my C-clip has the opening facing downward. Then get it lined up in the splines and plunge it in.
The next part can be a little tricky. Get the axle into the knuckle, then line the knuckle up with the ball joint. Grab a pinch bolt and get everything lined up. You can put your knee here to support the suspension.
Now cut the strap loose and let the arm and shock come down. Take the upper ball joint and get it line up. Sometimes you have to move your ball joint stud around a little bit. Once it’s lined up, tap it the rest of the way down. Then take the pinch bolt and slide it through. You may have to give a little bit of a tap. Get the nuts started.
Make sure the shock’s lined up on the A-arms. You can use a screwdriver to help you line it up. make sure the threads are facing the rear otherwise it may make contact with your axle. Put the nut on here.
Grab the hub and slide it onto the splines of the axle. Make sure that you reinstall the washers and the castle nut. Now repeat all these steps for the opposite side.
[19:32]Now grab the cylinder brackets. You’re going to have a drivers side which will look just like this and then a passenger side that will have the hole up here on the top. Slide them onto the A-arm bolts one at a time. Then start the nuts for the A-arm hardware. Just get them started. So it should look just like this.
Then take the cylinder and slide it right into position here. Make sure that the fittings for our hoses are sticking straight up and then start two of our bolts. That’ll be the lowest of your two bolts. Run it all the way across. We’re going to leave the other three open until we get the plate installed.
Slide it right into position where it lines up all three of these holes. Once you have all your bolts started, fully tighten your hardware using the M10 nuts provided
The next step is to install your tie rod. Make sure you use 242 blue thread locker. Get a good, even coat on the threads here. Install your inner ball and socket into the threaded portion on your cylinder. I like it to thread it in by hand as tight as I can get it and then tighten it up.
Once you have the inner ball and socket installed in your cylinder, attach your tie rod, and then thread in your heim joint. Keep the jam nuts loose. Take your heim joints and install them into the upper and lower portions of your tie rod end.
Now line it up with your knuckle and install the bolt just like that. Then get the nut started. repeat the same steps for the opposite side.
Next we’re going grab our sway bar links and get them installed. This is a lot easier if you can do it simultaneously on both sides. You can install one side at a time like this if you do it just perfectly. We already have the other side attached, so now we’ll get our nuts started. As long as you can get your hardware started on both sides, you should be able to get them all tightened up.
The next step is to flip your calipers from side to side. Get the brake line off of here. Try to get it to sit up somewhere high so yo don’t leak a bunch of fluid. Take the passenger caliper over to the driver’s side. Our caliper has fluid in it, but if you leave it sitting like this, it won’t leak.
Remove the driver’s side caliper the same way. One thing I like to do whenever I’m swapping calipers, is to go ahead and put it on the rotor like you’re going to mount it. It’ll make a little bit of a mess, but it shows you exactly where you need to put your break line. Attach the break line, and then you can see that our break line is going to lay really nicely.
Now pull the caliper off to make tightening it easier, then stick back on and tighten it using factory hardware. Repeat these steps for the opposite side.
[27:06] For this next step, remove this side panel. If you have a nerf bar, you’ll have to remove that to get the side panel removed. Remove these panels by removing the hardware shown. Remove the the center console by removing the hard ware shown.
The next step requires drilling. In order to do that, you’ll need to construct your brackets. Take Pump mount two and install the allen-headed hardware to both of the outside holes like this. Then join it to pump mount one. Grab the final allen-headed screw and put it in there. Then tighten up the hardware.
Now remove these three screws, place the pump mount assembly in place, and put those three screws back through the assembly. Fully tighten them up. Take a paint marker and mark the plastic through each of these holes. Remove the bracket and drill all three marked holes to at least nine millimeters.
Now that all three holes are drilled, measure 9.5 inches up from the floorboard, and measure 3.5 inches over from the rear firewall panel. Then cut a 1 3/4 inch hole in this spot using a hole saw.
Remove the the bracket from the machine and grab your solenoid and your motor. Get the M5 hardware as well. It’ll be two M5 bolts and two M5 nuts. Lay the solenoid on the bracket. Flip it up on its side and slide the hardware through from the bottom. Flip it back over and get the nuts started. Do this for both sides and fully tighten the hardware. It should look like this.
Next, set the motor down with the threads facing up. Set the mount on it so it lines up with the threads. Take a flat washier and install it to the bolt then add a lock washer. Get it started through the bracket. Do the same thing with the other hardware.
Grab one of the provided grommets in the kit and slide it into this hole. It should look like this. Then wire your connections just like this. With all the connections made, you’re ready to mount the motor and solenoid back in the machine.
Before you attach it to the firewall, make sure the plug that comes off the solenoid is in between the bracket and the firewall facing up. Take these three bolts and come in through the back of the firewall where you drilled your holes, and make sure they’re lined up. Install them in each hole. And then use the factory hardware in the floorboard.
Next remove the center tray and set it aside. Take the grommet and install it into the hole that you drilled out previously. Now start feeding your wires to where they need to be. You don’t have to hook them up just yet. Just feed them through and kin of gauge where they need to be. They can just hang there.
On top of the motor there are two red caps. Remove those. The fittings included in the kit have an O-ring on the side that needs to thread into the pump. Tighten these up to the point that they’re facing this way. Then tighten down this nut to secure it. Make sure both of these fittings are good and tight and make sure both are facing this way.
Now’s a good time to reinstall the factory hardware that secures this lower portion to the plastic on the machine. You may have to push pretty hard to get it lined up. Tighten these back up.
Grab the hoses and start feeding them through the grommet one at a time. Route them right along the intake tubes. Then take the other hose and route these together all the way back to the cylinder. Feed them back as far back as you can.
Now head to the back of the machine, flip the bed up, and start feeding them the rest of the way through. Grab the hoses and pull them the rest of the way back and continue feeding them towards the rear. Feed them down in between the frame and the sway bar and down to where they touch the cylinder. Attach them to the cylinder. Make sure you get them started on there straight and then fully tighten.
[36:10] Next, get the controller holder and we’ll install it just like this between the two cup holders. This kit includes some 3M double-sided tape. Lay it up on here, figure out how long of a piece you need, and cut a piece just like this. Peel one side off and stick it to the bracket. Then peel off the backing and stick it firmly to the center cup holder.
Next, we’ll connect the kit to the battery. Remove the studs off of the hot and ground on the battery. The red wire goes to the positive side of your battery and the black wire goes to the negative. Now reinstall the nuts and fully tighten them.
Grab the controller out of the kit and hang it on the holder. Come to where we slid the plug in between the bracketry and the motor, and plug it right in. Check to make sure the kit’s functioning properly. Our motor’s working. Don’t run it yet because there’s no fluid in it.
Now we’re going to show you how to center your cylinder. Install one wheel and tire and rotate it all the way one way so the cylinder is maxed out. Now measure from the face of the cylinder to the face of the inner ball and socket. Whatever your measurement may be, divide that by two. That’s what you’re going to set your cylinder to. Then, set your tie rods as close as you can to get your toe as straight as you can before we set it down on the ground.
Next, hook the lines up to your pump. Make sure you get them started straight just like the rear. Once they’re lined up, fully tighten them. Double check them to make sure you don’t get any leaks.
[39:10] Now pull a little slack so you have room to reach the red cap on the top of the reservoir. Remove the cap and use a funnel to fill the reservoir. Today we’re just using some house brand Mercon automatic transmission fluid. I like to just get a gallon.
Fill it to the max fill line then start actuating the pump. Keep running the pump until it gets to about half full, then keep filling it back up to full. Just keep actuating the pump until you bleed all of the air out of the lines. It will self bleed and you want to make sure you get all the air out of the lines so you don’t have issues.
Now grab the reducer and install it where the red cap was. Just hand tighten it then fully tighten it with a wrench. Next, grab the vent line and go up here as high as we can on the cage here on the rear crossbar. Start feeding it down. I like to go down behind the seatbelt. Run it through here and attach it.
Then zip tie it all the way up. You don’t have to run it just like this, just make sure it’s as high up as possible. Put a zip tie on the reducer as well. Then feed the hose slack back through the grommet. Then go through and tie all the hydraulic hoses in a good spot where they’re not around any moving components or anything that’s going to have a lot of excessive heat.
At this point, go through and reinstall and factory components you’ve removed and make sure the hardware is fully tightened. Tie up any wiring and double check your hoses. Rear measure your rear wheels to the centerline to make sure you’re centered.
And there you have it. That’s all it takes to install SuperATV’s RIDE System. For more information on this or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
