Length: 14:40
Created: May 17, 2019
[0:00] The first thing we’re going to do is remove the hood from the machine. Set it aside for the time being.
Next, we’re going to mount our solenoid. We’ve found that right here in the plastic is the best place to mount it. You can mount it anywhere you’d like, but this is just the most ideal position for our installation today.
Grab your Y splitter, as well as your wireless receiver for the remote. We’re going to take the Y splitter and plug it in to the wire coming off of the solenoid here. Go ahead and fully tighten it, just like that.
[0:59] For the next step, we’re gonna find a place to mount the wireless receiver. Again, there’s no right or wrong way to mount this, as long as it’s in a good place where it’s not gonna get wet.
I like to get it up here on the frame. Just take a big zip tie like this and run it right through here. Put it onto the frame and then make sure this blue wire is standing straight up.
[1:44] Now take this wire and kind of tuck it, just like this. It doesn’t have to be perfect, like I said. You just want everything to be in a good place where it’s not going to get wet.
Now we’re going to grab our wired remote and plug it into the Y splitter as well, the same exact way. Just rotate it until it slides in. Tighten the screw down here. Then we’re going to go inside and pull the front fascia of the dash off. We’re going to slide our remote through the firewall and into the dash.
We’re gonna remove the front portion of the fascia. We have an anti-marring tool here. We’re just going to stick it in between the plastic and work it around until it pops loose. Once it pops loose, you can just go around and pull all the tabs out. We’ll just lay this aside for the time being.
Now we’re gonna head back out to the front and feed our wire through here.
[3:00] Now we’re just going to start pushing this through. Once we’ve got it pulled through, we’re gonna go ahead and install the wired switch. You can mount it anywhere you’d like. A lot of people like to mount it right here, next to the shifter. We mount it right up here, next to the cup holder. We found that’s easiest.
Grab your hot and ground wires provided in the kit. We’re gonna run our wires down to where the winch is going to be from the solenoid. We’re going to start with the ground wire. Attach it to the yellow stud. There’s the washers in here. Put the washer back on. You just want to hand tighten the nut, that way you can rotate it either way that you need.
Then grab the positive cable. We’re gonna attach it to the blue stud.
Then you move the washer, put the cable on, put the washers back on, and tighten the nut. Then we’re gonna start feeding the wires down right through this hole here. Just feed it all the way down toward the differential.
[4:33] We’re gonna take the other set of wires, starting with the ground wire. We’re gonna wire it into the black post, the same exact way that we wired the other ones. Remove the washers and reinstall the washers.
We’re gonna grab the hot wire and connect it to the red post.
Next, we’re going to locate a key-on power source to power up the solenoid. What we like to do is start in the fuse panel. We’ll just remove this and remove these two plugs here.
[5:21] Once they’re removed, you want to take the caps off of them. There’s a little tab right here that you’ll have to pick up on to get these caps off. We’re gonna take our test light and find a good chassis ground. Use this bolt right here. Make sure it’s on there good and tight, and we’re going to go into each of these connectors and check for power. The key’s off right now, so we don’t have anything there. Nothing going there.
Now we’re gonna go and turn the key on. We’re gonna do the same thing. We’ll go through and probe all of these wires. OK, so that one’s hot with the key on. And then this one over here is hot with the key on.
So you can either use this wire right here, with blue and pink, on this plug, or the blue and pink on the other plug. Just to make sure we’re gonna shut the key off and we’re gonna make sure they don’t have any power to them with the key being off. Looks like we’re good. The blue and pink wire is gonna be the one you can use, and like I said, you can use them on either plug.
And you can use a tab where you can splice in and couple it together. We’re gonna go ahead and splice in and couple them together, then we’re gonna hook it up to our solenoid.
[7:39] This concludes the wiring portion of the install. We’re gonna go ahead and reinstall our fuse panel, just like this. Make sure all of our connections are very tight. Then go ahead and start removing the bumper.
We’re gonna remove all the hardware fastening it to the frame. There’s going to be a bolt here, as well as down here, and then in the same places on the opposite side.
Then remove the two screws located below here that hold this bracket on. You’ll just want to set this aside.
Once you remove the hardware, go ahead and remove the bumper and set it aside as well. Remove these four bolts and then the plate.
So we have our winch mount and our factory hardware we just removed. We’re going to install it so this flat portion here is going up against the machine. To line these holes up, you’re going to make sure that you use the innermost holes. Then go ahead and tighten the hardware.
We’re gonna grab our side brackets for each side, and then eight M10x30mm bolts and eight M10 nuts. We’re gonna go ahead and start attaching these. There’s only one way they can go. We need to get the one that orients like this, that angles inward, so it’ll sit up against the flat on the winch mount and the holes align here in the center.
So you’ll take your bolts, drop them through. Grab a nut. Just continue doing this all the way around for both sides.
[9:42] Next, we’re gonna grab our fairlead plate and our M8 hardware. We’re gonna attach it to the winch mount and put the bolts in through the top here. Go ahead and start your nuts. Just leave it loose.
Now we’ll grab our winch and lay it up on top of the mount. Then we’re gonna grab our wires. We’ll take our insulator caps and slide them down onto here. Just slide them back out of the way for the moment. We’ll do this for the hot and ground.
Then we’re going to look on our winch over here. In the rear, toward the machine, is going to be our hot wire. Toward the front is going to be our ground.
[10:37] We’ll go ahead and grab our ground wire, remove the nut from the stud on the winch, and one washer. Leave one on the stud there. Slide this on.
At this point you want to go ahead and fully tighten the hardware for the winch on both of the terminals here. Now we’ve got the hot wire. Slide it on the stud, leave one washer, then put one washer on top of the connector there. Then put our nut back on. Then fully tighten both of them. Put our insulator caps over top of the stud.
[11:43] Next we’ll grab the provided hardware that comes with the winch. Use the washer, the lock washer, and the head of the bolt. Stick it up through and line the holes up. Go ahead and hand tighten all of these until you get them all started.
Once you have them all started, go ahead and fully tighten all the hardware that secures the winch to the winch mount.
Grab the fairlead that was provided with the winch kit, as well as the hardware. You want to orient the hardware like so: washer, lock washer, and the head of the screw. Make sure that the side that has the wider hole is facing away from the machine.
Slide your rope through the winch mount and slide it through the fairlead. Put your screw through the hole. Go ahead and start a nut on one side, just like that, then do the same thing over here for the opposite side. Then we’ll tighten the fairlead plate that attaches to the winch mount.
[13:12] Grab the stop block, the clevis hook, and the pull strap. Remove the cotter pin from the clevis hook and line it up. Slide your pin back through. Put your cotter pin in and bend the cotter pin over, away from itself.
Then pull this cover that’s on the rope up and pop this piece up out of the stop block. Slide it on to the rope and reinstall that piece that we’ve previously removed.
Reinstall the bumper, make sure all the hardware’s fully tightened, and that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s 5400 lb. Winch and Winch Mount on this Kawasaki Teryx 4. For more information on the winch or winch mount, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching, and have a great day.
