Created: September 12, 2019
Has this ever happened to you? Ever been stuck on the trail? Well today we’re going to show you how to install a winch and winch mount on your Polaris RZR 1000.
The first step is to remove the front wheels, tires, and bumper if you have one installed. We’ve already done so, so we’re gonna jump right in and disconnect the shock from the A-arm. Let’s pick up on the A-arm and remove the bolt. We’re going to tie our shock up out of the way, and you’ll only want to do this on the driver’s side.
Next, we’re going to loosen the brake line and then rotate it away from the differential. Just one turn is usually good. You just want to push it back like that and then tighten it back up. Next we’re going to grab our winch mount. We’re going to mount it in the machine like this with the lip facing towards the rear and then this portion facing towards the front. We’re gonna pull our brake lines and everything out of the way. Start pushing it through. You’ll have to wiggle everything around a little bit just to get everything to line up properly.
Once you have it lined up, grab your hardware. It’s gonna be the same from the front to the rear and the left to the right. We’re gonna install it so this bolt is facing this way for the rearmost hole. So it’ll go in just like this. Then we’re going to come from the backside with one of our nyloc nuts. Thread it on and get it started. We’re gonna do the same thing on the front side except our screw is going to come from the front to the back. So it’ll sit in there just like this. Then we’ll start our nut.
Next we’re gonna be installing our fairlead adapter. There’s a couple different ways you could orient these depending on what winch you’re installing. We’re installing a 4,500 pound winch today so we’re going to angle the bracket just like this. If you’re installing a 5,000 pound winch, it will be the same way. If you’re installing a 3,500 pound winch, you’ll angle them just like so. We’re going to use our factory hardware just like this. Do the same thing for the opposite side.
Once the fairlead adapter is installed in the machine, grab the provided fairlead that comes in the winch kit. Install it, making sure that we have a washer going up against the fairlead. Then we have a lock washer going up against the head of the Allen headed screw. So install our screw on the recessed side of the fairlead. Slide it into the hole. Take one of the provided nuts and get it started. Then, using a six millimeter allen and a fourteen millimeter wrench, fully tighten the hardware.
Now we’re gonna install our fairlead grille using the factory hardware. Make sure that you line up the notches. Push it up into place. Get your hardware started and then just go ahead and fully tighten it up.
Next, we’re gonna install our SuperATV 4,500 pound winch. From the driver’s side of the machine, make sure that the terminals are aiming towards the passenger side. Slide it right in here. I’m gonna have to pick upon the radiator hoses just a little bit and just try to get it lined up as best as I can. Before we bolt the winch down, grab the rope, put the winch in the free-spool mode, then take the winch rope and feed it through the fairlead. Just pull it through just like that.
Then let’s get our winch lined up. There’s two sets of holes. We’re gonna use the outermost holes because we are using a 4,500 pound winch today. So we’re gonna grab our hardware and take our lock washer put it down onto the head of the bolt. Take a washer lay it up against the lock washer, then we’re gonna thread it into the bottom of the winch. You just want to get a couple threads. You don’t want to tighten any of them up yet because you’re probably gonna have to rotate the winch around. I like to start my bolts across from each other that way it centers up the winch. So we did that front corner on the driver’s side. Now we’re gonna come over to the passenger side and do the rearmost corner. It can be a little tight on the passenger side because the shock and everything’s still in place. For easier access you could remove the shock.
Next we’re gonna remove the hood and we’ll just set it aside. We’re gonna mount our solenoid in the factory indentions located directly below the busbar. There’ll be four of them. So we’re gonna grab our solenoid and our hardware. On our hardware, we need to make sure that we have a lock washer up against the head of the bolt and then a washer going up against the solenoid. We’re gonna feed our solenoid down here. Start getting it mounted up. One quick tip that can help you for getting your bolts started into these indentions is just run them in and out a couple times on each of the holes. That way, they thread in there by hand a little bit easier for you. We’ll get all four bolts started, and as soon as we have them all started, we’ll start tightening them up.
So in your kit you’re gonna have two bundles of wire. We went ahead and cut down the wire just because it was going to be excessive for where we have our solenoid mounted. We send the provided connectors and heat shrink for you to do this. Since we’ve already done this, we’re gonna take our wire that’s going to go to the positive side of our winch and attach it to the blue post on the solenoid. Now we’re gonna do the same thing and attach it to the winch on the negative side. On the solenoid, we’re going to attach it to the yellow post.
When you go to attach your wire to the winch, first you want to make sure that you’re attaching the ground to the ground indicated on the side of the winch as well as the positive to the positive. Then you’ll just want to remove your nut as well as one of the washers. You’ll leave one on the stud then you’ll want to attach your connection. Reinstall one of the washers as well as the nut and then fully tighten them.
Next, we’re going to wire in the power supply to our solenoid. This machine has already been wired up to have the key-on accessory, the ground, and the hot directly from the battery. If your machine’s not wired up like this, you’re gonna have to run your wires from the solenoid to the battery.
We have our ground wire here. We’re gonna attach the ground wire to the black post on the solenoid. Once it’s attached on the solenoid, we’re gonna remove the center screw on the bus bar. We’re gonna slide the wire onto the center stud and then tighten our connections. Then, for the red wire—our hot wire—we’re gonna go to the red post on the solenoid, and then connect it to the post on the far right side. This will be our all-time hot or directly from the battery power.
Next, we’re going to take the provided keyed-on power source wire and attach it to the solenoid. On this end, we’re attaching it to the wire that’s coming off of the solenoid. It’ll be red as well. You also want to make sure it makes a good connection. Then we need to power this on with the keyed-on source. Again, our machine’s already been equipped with a busbar that has the accessory keyed on, the ground, and the all-time hot from the battery. If your machine does not, you’re gonna have to use a test light to go into the wiring of the machine and find a keyed-on power source.
Today, we’re just going to attach our wire right here on the far left post. We’re gonna hold it up to see how long we need the wire. That looks about right there. We’re going to go ahead and make a cut then strip the wire down. We’re just going to be using a small connector here. Crimp it down and attach it directly to this far left stud.
Next, we’re going to grab our Y-splitter and attach it to the connection coming off of the solenoid. Make sure the pins are lined up. Then thread this nut down on here until it’s tight. Attach our wireless receiver for a wireless remote. Make sure the pins are lined up and just thread this nut down.
You can mount this anywhere you’d like. We like to mount it up as high as we can, and we like to make sure that this blue wire is sticking straight up. We’re gonna run it underneath the factory shock bracket and get everything tucked in nicely and neat. We’re just gonna mount it right here. All you have to do is take a zip tie, run it in between these two wires, then fasten it down to the frame. Then you can just take this and angle it towards the front of the machine so it sticks up towards the front. Or you could tie it up. You just need to make sure that this is facing up, that way you can get the maximum amount of reach on your wireless remote. We’re going to sit it right here on this frame rail and zip tie it in place.
Next, we’re remove the two screws securing the dash to the machine. We’ll remove these and then we’ll just push the dash inward towards the machine. Then, just let it hang. Once we’ve done this, we can grab our hardwired winch controller. We’re gonna take this connector which is going to connect to our Y-splitter and feed it through the grommet located directly down from here. Feed it through and we’ll connect it to the Y-splitter. Plug that right in and thread the nut on there. This is the point where you decide if you want to use the hardwired switch or if you’d like to use one of our SuperATV winch rocker switches that you can pick up from SuperATV.com.
Today we’re gonna show you how to do both. If you are gonna use the hardwired switch, you’ll want to feed your wires straight down to the floorboard of the machine. The next step is to find the location where you would like to mount the hardwired rocker switch. You can use this bracket mounted to the back of the hardwired rocker switch. You could drill a hole right here or anywhere you’d like, and then you would take the Allen headed hardware, put the bolt through on this side, and then put a nut on the bottom side. Then you would tie all your wires up out of the way.
We’re not gonna be doing that today. We’re going to be showing you how to install one of our winch rocker switches. You’re gonna cut a hole in your dash big enough that your winch rocker switch will fit in. Once you’ve done this, you’re gonna pop your dash forward and grab your hardwired switch. You’re gonna cut the end off of it just like that.
We’re gonna start by taking the wire from that hardwired switch and feeding it through the hole that we just cut in the dash, and you also want to feed all that through there. Then we’ll cut this down the length as well. The next step is going to be to get a keyed-on power source wire. We have the keyed-on power source wire from our solenoid. We’re gonna put one eyelet connector on it to connect it to the busbar. We’re gonna crimp that on.
We’re going to attach it to the busbar on the far left post, which is going to be your keyed-on accessory post. We’re not going to fully tighten it because we’re just mocking it up right now to see how much wire we’re gonna have to cut off. So then we’re going to start feeding our wires through the grommet. I’m just going to pull it all the way through until it’s tight. We’re gonna feed it through the hole in the dash where the rocker switch is gonna be.
We’re just gonna leave that there. Then we’re gonna do the exact same thing for our ground wire. We’re gonna go from the center post on the busbar and then run it down through the grommet and out through the rocker switch hole. Once you have a keyed-on accessory wire, a ground wire, and the hard-wired rocker switch wires fed through the hole, we’re gonna move the dash back to where it’s gonna be located and make sure all our wires are pulled out as far as they can go.
Then we’re gonna head on into the machine. Once we have all our wires pulled through, we’re gonna trim each wire down. I usually like to keep a foot of extra wire or a little less just so you don’t have to be cramped right up here putting connectors on. Right here we’re just gonna cut all these wires straight across. We’re gonna start stripping all the wires down, that way we can put connectors on each of them. For the ground wire, the blue wire, the brown, and the green with the yellow stripe, you’re gonna connect blade connectors. These can be picked up at any local hardware store. We’re just gonna connect them to each of these wires. Grab our clamps and crimp it down. To make sure that we’ve made a good connection, pull them a little bit to make sure the wire doesn’t move. Then do that for the rest of the three wires.
We have our connectors on except for a keyed-on power source wire. We’re gonna get a piece of wire, about six inches long, and then cut it right in the middle so now we have two pieces of wire. We’re gonna strip them on both sides. There’s one that’s stripped and ready to go. We’re gonna do the same thing for this other one.
We have both sides of our wire stripped on one end. We’re gonna connect a blade connector just like we did the other pieces of wire. Make sure the connection’s good and tight. We’ll do the same thing for this other three-inch wire. Once we have our two connectors crimped onto our three-inch pieces of wire, we’re going to go to our keyed-on accessory wire, and we’re going to tie all three wires in together: the two brand new ones we just put together and then the keyed-on. You just want to twist these up as tight as you can get them, and you’re gonna get one bigger blade connector. Slide all three of the wires in there together and make sure they’re all fully seated. We’re going to get our crimps and crimp it down nice and tight.
Once we have all of our connections made, we’re just going to go through with the heat gun. We’re using an insulated connector so we’re just gonna shrink all these down to the wire on each.
So now we’re going to grab our rocker switch. If you look on the rocker switch, they’re labeled. The left side with three prongs is one, two, and three. We’re going to take the three wires coupled together—accessory, hot, and then these two 3-inch wires we made. We’re gonna take one of them and attach it to one prong. It doesn’t matter what order they go in as long as the keyed-on accessory wire is going to the center. All three connections are made there just like that. Then we’re going to grab our ground wire, and it’s going to go to the very top post on the other side which will be labeled seven. The rest of these three are going to be four, five, and six.
We’re gonna take this wire right here—the yellow and the green—and put it on spade four. The blue wire is going to go to spade five. The brown is gonna go to spade six. Once we’ve had all our connections made, we’re gonna slide our rocker switch into the hole that we cutout on the dash. Then once we got it in there, let’s turn our key on and the rocker switch should illuminate. Then you can check it by clicking in and then out. And our winch is working
We’re gonna shut it off and remove the key. Now we’re gonna put our screws back in our dash, reinstall our hood, and mount up our clevis hook, pull strap, and stop block. We’re just gonna slide our winch rope cover back a little bit. We remove the pin from the clevis hook, slide the pin through, take our cotter pin put it in there, and then bend it away from itself. We’ll take our pull strap and slide it on there. For the stop block, we’ll just push this little centerpiece out just like that. Slide it onto the rope and make sure that the SuperATV is facing forward. Reinstall it just like that.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s winch and winch mount on this Polaris RZR 1000. For more information on this winch, our winch mount, or any of SuperATV’s great products, give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching, and have a great day.
How to Install RackBoss Rack & Pinion on a Polaris Ranger 900
How to Install a 6" Lift Kit on a Honda Pioneer 1000
How to Install a Plug & Play Turn Signal Kit on a Can-Am Defender
How to Install High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms on the Polaris RZR PRO XP
How to Install a Rev1 Clutch Kit on a Polaris RZR XP Turbo S
How to Install High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms on a Honda Pioneer 1000-5