Length: 19:29
Created: May 21, 2020
[0:00] Are you running GDP portals? Ever wondered how to change a seal or a bearing? Well today we’re gonna show you how to do it all. Let’s get started.
The first step is to make sure that your box is totally drained of all the oil. Then we’ll go through and remove the six bolts securing the lid to the housing.
We’ll remove all of them except for just a few, and then put three turns so they have three threads into the housing.
We’ll take a rubber mallet and hit down on these bolts while picking up on the portal by the output shaft. That’s gonna separate the lid from the housing. Then go ahead and remove your bolts completely. Grab a hold of the lid and separate the lid from the housing.
[1:11] Now go through and remove all the gears. Set them aside for the time being. Then you’ll remove this hub from the idler gear. Grab a hold of our gasket. Pull it out as well, as we won’t be using that.
Then we’ll head over to the press. We’re gonna press our output shaft out of the lid.
When you’re setting the portal lid up on the press, make sure you have something that sits right here on the edge of the bearing. That way the output shaft can push through it. Make sure you get it lined up good and straight, then we’ll just grab something to sit down on top of the shaft. Make sure you don’t press directly on the shaft. Then we’ll start pressing the shaft out.
[2:13] Once it’s all the way out, remove the lid from the press. Then we’ll head back over to the table.
We’ll go ahead and remove both of our seals that are on our lid. You can take a pick and slide it up underneath the seal, then pry it straight out. The same way for this seal right here.
Once you bend that seal you can just pull it right up out of there, just like that.
[2:37] We’re gonna head over here to the housing side. Remove this seal as well. I’m gonna take the pick, put it in there, and pry straight up. The seal will come right out.
Now we’re gonna start removing the bearings. The best way we’ve found to do this is to get two small pieces of wood, or anything that elevates the box up off your table and keeps it level. By the way, these bearings will come right out, so we’ll go ahead and put some gloves on.
There are a few different ways of doing this. You can get a blind bearing puller and pull the bearings out that way, or you can do it the way we’re gonna be doing it today. And that’s by using a torch.
[3:26] So what we’ll do is heat around the bearing. We don’t want to heat directly down because what that’s gonna do is expand the bearing, and they won’t want to come out very easily. So we’ll start with this center idler gear bearing here. We’ll just heat right around it.
Once we’ve got it good and hot we’ll grab each side of the portal box and then slam it straight down onto our blocks of wood.
Sometimes you’ll have that, where two bearings will come out at once, and that’s perfectly fine. That’s actually beneficial for you. That means you don’t have to heat the other portion of it. So we had our top bearing as well as our middle bearing come out. Now we’ll go ahead and heat up this bottom bearing and get it out.
[4:23] We’ve got it good and hot. We’ll just grab a hold of the housing and knock the bearing straight out. Then we’ll take our housing portion of the portal and set it aside for the time being.
We’re gonna grab the lid side now. The lid side’s a little bit different. You can actually press these bearings out in the press or you can heat it up, either way you want to do it. Today we’re going to show you how to heat it up.
[4:50] So we know there’s a bearing here, a bearing here, and then a bearing here. Like you saw last time, we got two bearings at once, so we’re going to try to get this bearing as well as this bearing at the same time here.
[5:19] Once we’ve got it good and hot we’re just gonna take our box and knock it straight out. It looks like this one over here is about to come out as well. And this one right here is about to come out.
There we go, there’s all three bearings out.
Now we’re gonna let these cool down. We’ll head over to the press and start pressing in our new bearings.
Now that we’re over to the press, we’re working on the lid side. We’re going to press it in the thrust bearing first.
When pressing in our bearings, you want to make sure that you find something that sits on the inner race, or the inner portion of the bearing, perfectly. We have a socket that fits it good and this socket is a 36 mm socket. We’re gonna set it up just like that.
But first we’re gonna take the bearing and get it sat down straight. That way it presses straight down. We have it pretty good and straight there. We’re gonna lay it up on something solid, the whole lid. We’ll take our socket and then something to push against the socket and we’ll start pressing it down in.
[6:56] So we’ll press it down in until it fully seats. When it’s fully seated the bearing will barely be sticking up out of the housing. It’ll almost be flush. We’re gonna do the same process for the other two bearings here. We’ll just take the bearing, get it started straight. Get our socket and something that helps push it down.
With this bearing, we may take another piece. We’re going to take this little piece of pipe right here just to help us, so we don’t run out of stroke on our press. Make sure the bearing goes down in there to where it’s almost flush.
[8:01] We’re gonna do the same thing with this last bearing. Make sure we get it lined up good.
Then while we’re already here, we’ll press our output shaft back in. Make sure the output shaft goes just like this.
We’re gonna lay something on top of the shaft, that way we’re not pressing directly off of the shaft. Get it nice and centered. We’ll just press it all the way in.
Make sure it’s fully seated. We’ll have just a little bit of gap there before it touches the bearing. You should want to spin it.
[9:29] We’re gonna take our lid and sit it back on the table. We’ll grab our housing. Same process, just make sure you get them lined up nice and straight. We’ll press it right out.
I’m gonna get our other bearing started. That one’s fully seated. Now we’ll get our last bearing started in the housing.
[11:12] Now we have all our bearings in. We’re gonna head back over to the table.
Now that we have all our bearings installed, we’ll start reinstalling our gears. We’ll start with the idler gear hub. It doesn’t matter which way you install it. You’re just going to make sure that it goes right down into the idler gear bearing.
A lot of times it’ll go in right by hand. If you can’t get it to go in by hand, make sure you have it lined up straight and then hit it square straight down into the bearing, just like that.
Then we’ll grab our idler gear. It doesn’t matter which way it’s flipped. Just go ahead and make sure it lines up with the splines. Set it right in there.
We’re gonna get our drive gear. This is the only gear where it really matters which way you install it. You’re gonna make sure that the beveled side is facing up toward you. We’re gonna line it up with the gear as well as the bearing, and just slide it right down in there.
We’re gonna take our drive gear and put it in just like this.
[12:24] Now we’ll grab a little bit of grease. Just take some, put it on your finger, and go all the way around where the gasket goes for the O-ring seal. We’ll just coat it. And we’ll come through and wipe the excess off. Just make sure it gets down into the groove, where that seal is going to go.
This will help the seal stay in place when you go to install it. The biggest thing is to try and keep it off of the gears and out of the inside of the box. If it does get down in there, it’s not that big of a deal. You’ll just want to wipe it out.
[13:03] We’re gonna go all the way around, get a nice little coat down on the groove. It’s better if you pack it up on your finger and then slowly work it. It’ll work itself into that groove a little bit easier.
Make sure you go all the way around. It doesn’t have to be a ton. Then we’ll go back through and wipe all this excess off. Like I said, it’s okay if there is some excess. You just don’t want big gobs of grease.
I’ll wipe my hands off and then we’re gonna grab the O-ring seal. As you can see, if you kind of lay it up here, you can tell how it’s gonna go. I just want to go through and make sure this seal is fully seated all the way around the groove. That’s what that grease is for. Otherwise, that will kind of want to pop out of there and potentially, when you go to put that box together, not be in the proper location.
And any of that excess grease is gonna pop up out of there, out of the groove. Just go through and kind of wipe the seal down with it. It’s not gonna hurt a single thing.
[14:17] We want to make sure our dials are still installed. Sometimes when you’re hitting the housing down to get the bearings out, the dials will come out. But ours didn’t, so we’re good to go.
We’ll take the lid and get it lined up with the drive gear. The key to getting it to go together is to just kind of wiggle the drive gear. Make sure it’s in there straight, and then you’re going to take your rubber mallet. Start up here at the top with your left hand. Make sure you’re pushing down. It’ll just drop right into place. Go ahead and put a couple bolts in it.
We’re not gonna fully tighten any of them—we’re just gonna run them down until they touch.
So we’ve got our box assembled. We just want to grab the output shaft and make sure it spins freely all the way around.
Grab the three seals that are in the rebuild kit. What I like to do is just take a little bit of grease—not much at all—and go around the outside of the seal. Then as well on the inside of the seal. You just want to pack it in there.
Once you’ve get a good coat of grease on it, make sure that the open side is facing down. We’re gonna slide it right into place here.
Get it lined up straight. A lot of the time you can get it started with your hands. This one’s pretty straight, but it isn’t wanting to go in by hand, so we’re gonna take our rubber mallet and get it down in there flush.
[16:12] Then we’ll take our flat punch. We’ll go around the whole seal and make sure the seal is all the way seated down, and the top of the drive gear should be sticking out just a little bit here.
We’ll do the same thing with the grease on the rest of the two seals here. Just get a good, even coat on inside, as well as the outside of the seal. Then we’ll slide it down over top of the output shaft. Get it good and started. Then we’ll grab our flat punch. Go all the way around and make sure it’s fully seated.
We’ll roll the box over to the back side. We’re going to install this seal. We’ll get some grease on it first.
[18:00] Make sure the open side goes down, as flat as you possibly can. You’re gonna take your mallet and go around, tap it in as far as it’ll go with the mallet. Take your flat punch and make sure it’s fully seated.
Go through and torque all six of these bolts to 20 ft./lbs., then reinstall it to your machine.
After reinstalling the portal onto your machine, you want to make sure your drain plug is tight. Fill the portal box up with 8090 gear oil until the oil has a good stream running out of the fill hole.
[19:01] Reinstall the fill plug and you’re ready to ride!
That’s how super easy it is to rebuild an 8″ portal. For more information on these portals or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
