[Photo by SuperATV]
Break, replace, repeat. That’s life when you own a side-by-side, right? You break an OEM axle, you take it to the dealer, and they replace it with a new OEM axle—that’s just the way it’s done. The OEM made the damn UTV after all.
But did you know that you can get aftermarket axles that are stronger, have a better warranty, and cost less than stock? We’re talking about our Rhino 2.0 Axles. They’re the most popular aftermarket axle in the industry for good reason—when it comes to Rhino 2.0 Axles versus stock, there’s really no comparison at all.
Rhino 2.0 Axles are the best bang for your buck in the industry. It might sound too good to be true, but they’re stronger than your stock axles, they have a better warranty than whatever Can-Am, Polaris, or Honda gives you, and they cost less than a stock replacement.
Let’s break that down.
So for around the same price as a stock axle or less, you get more strength and a better warranty. It’s a clear win-win.
Now let’s take a closer look at some of the testing data we have. We always test Rhino 2.0 and stock axles against each other to make sure you get a better axle.
Our tests take place in our multi-million dollar testing lab where we can directly measure heat buildup, endurance, and overall force required to snap an axle.
The overall force is the easiest way to understand, so let’s compare the average maximum force required to break Rhino 2.0 Axles versus stock for a few popular machines.
From a low of around 25% stronger on a Can-Am X3 to around 80% stronger on a RZR XP 1000, it’s obvious that you get a whole lot of bang for your buck no matter what machine you use.
But how do we actually make them stronger? There are three features that make Rhino 2.0 a cut above the rest:
Those are the key elements of what we affectionately refer to as the Rhino 2.0 formula. That’s the secret sauce that makes Rhino 2.0 the absolute best bang for your buck.
The advantage of bigger CVs and shafts is easy to understand. In this case, more bigger really does mean more better. The chromoly axle shafts vs stock boost strength a lot too, but it’s our proprietary heat treatment that ensures they’re as tough as they can be without getting brittle. It’s what separates our axles from the rest.
But they’re not too strong. They’re still going to break before you can damage your transmission or differential.
You probably have some buddy that bought fancy axles somewhere, but it took five weeks and $2,000 before they finally got delivered.
That’s not how it works with SuperATV. We keep them in stock and many in our worldwide network of dealers keep them in stock too.
Plus, we ship fast—really fast.
Seriously, we have warehouses across the country to make sure almost everybody in the continental US gets two-day shipping and nearly half get one-day shipping.
If you take your busted side-by-side to your dealer and they don’t have the Rhino 2.0 you need in stock, they can get it in their mailbox in a day or two. Heck, you can get one to your front door just as quickly with free shipping when you purchase online! The time and effort to get one instead of a stock axle is negligible for you and your dealer.
So if you think your OEM has everything you need, you should think again. When it comes to OEM CV axles vs aftermarket, Rhino 2.0 Axles clearly show that aftermarket is better. They give you more strength and a better warranty for the same price or less than stock.
You don’t have to be some kind of sponsored racer to use them—they’re a win-win for anybody that wants to ride with confidence instead of risking another busted stock axle.
Don’t wait until you break an axle—upgrade to Rhino 2.0 now to make sure OEM won’t ruin your next ride.
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Thanks, Ive upgraded from OEM. But what is the maximum angle in degrees, that the Rhino axles for a Yamaha RMAX 1000/4 can handle? We need this to set our limit straps length.
Hey Kimball. The max angle of the inside joints is about 35°, and the max angle of the outside joints is about 45°. At those max angles, the joints are weaker and run hotter, but that’s a pretty good max angle for limit straps. For normal running with the machine on the ground, we recommend keeping the inside joint around 30° or less and the outside joint around 37° or less. Thanks for checking in!