Created: November 21, 2022
Hello, everyone! Today we’re going to show you the short 25 steps to install SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Rhino 2.0 Front Axles on the Polaris RZR PRO R—it’s easier than you think. Let’s get started.
1) Remove the front wheel and tire first, then disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle. Make sure you put the nut in a safe place.
2) Next, you’ll use two hammers to release the tie rod from the knuckle. You’ll hold one tire against the hole where the tie rod is inserted and use the other hammer to beat it. That will loosen the hold on the tie rod so you can release it with a few taps underneath. Once you’ve freed the tie rod end, lift it out of the knuckle and push it to the side.
3) After that, you’ll remove the two bolts securing the brake caliper. Then take the brake caliper and pull it to the side (the brake line will still be attached). Check to make sure neither of the pads is about to fall out. If either brake pad is loose, remove it and put it somewhere safe before it hits the floor. Now grab the rotor, remove it, and set it aside.
4) Now remove the 30 mm axle nut. Once you’ve done that, you can remove the two 8 mm bolts securing the brake line to the knuckle. Move the brake line to the side.
5) Next, remove the shock bolt from the A-arm and disconnect the sway bar. Then you’ll remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt.
6) Take a ratchet strap, loop it around the cage, and back onto itself. Now that the pinch bolt is removed, wiggle the upper A-arm to free it. Then take the strap and wrap it around the ball joint stud and lift the arm up and out of the way (the caliper will move upward with it). Tighten the ratchet strap to hold it firmly, then lay the caliper on top of the A-arm.
7) Next, remove the axle from the hub. If your axle is stuck in the hub, give the end of it a few hard taps with a mallet until it comes loose. Then grab it and remove it from the axle. The hub will still be attached to the lower A-arm, so this may take some wiggling.
8) Once you’ve separated the axle from the hub, hold the lower A-arm securely with one hand and remove the shock bolt with the other. Then remove the sway bar. Gently lower the A-arm and slide the shock bolt back into place for reuse later.
9) Drop the A-arm all the way down while lifting the axle at the same time. You should be able to free it completely from the hub.
10) The next part can be tricky. Move the axle all the way to the side, plunge it in, then pull straight out. The axle should be fully removed now.
11) Remove the strap from the upper A-arm. Lift it all the way up, then lift the shock as high as it can go, then hook the strap to the shock. It’s easiest to hook it onto the bolt you reinserted earlier.
12) Now you can start installing the new Rhino 2.0 axle. Before installing the axle, apply a bit of axle grease to the threads on the end that connects to the differential. You don’t need much, just one solid swipe all the way around should be enough. This will save you a headache later on by preventing dirt, dust, or debris getting into the differential and causing the axle to seize up.
13) Make sure the C-clip opening is facing down then slide the axle into the hole in the diff. You should hear a loud thunk or pop when the axle is securely installed in the differential.
14) For the next part, you’ll have to let the axle drop down. But don’t let it drop all the way or it can pinch the boot, which can allow contaminants in. Bring it down just far enough to where you can grab the knuckle. Slide the axle into the knuckle until the threads start to protrude through the hole.
15) The next part can be tricky. Brace the knuckle against your leg so the axle doesn’t drop. Remove the strap from the shock and the bolt. Then slide the shock over the axle. Without dropping anything, take your strap and use it to hold the upper A-arm out of the way again.
16) Once you’ve done that, line the shock up with the A-arm. Remove the bolt from the bushings first. Try to keep the bushings as straight as possible, then line up the holes and slide the shock bolt through.
17) Don’t forget to reinstall the sway bar link and nut. After you’ve done that, it’s okay to drop the axle since the A-arm will keep it from pinching the boot.
18) Now you’ll need the 15 mm pinch bolt for the upper ball joint. Remove the strap from the upper A-arm and slide it into the knuckle. Then insert the pinch bolt and tighten the nut onto the other side. Start the hardware on the shock bolt as well.
19) Once you’ve reinstalled all that hardware, go ahead and fully tighten it with power tools. After you’ve done that, reinstall the castle nut on the knuckle and tighten it until the cotter hole is exposed. Then insert the cotter pin into the hole and bend it away from itself to lock it in.
20) Remove the 8 mm bolts from the knuckle that you placed there earlier. Reattach the brake line bracket and finger tighten both bolts into place before tightening them fully. Go ahead and reinstall the rotor and finger tighten a lug nut to hold them in place.
21) Next you’ll reinstall the calipers. The slide pins came out of our caliper, so we will go over how to fix it if this happens.
22) First, remove the slide pins from both ends. They are allen-headed. Then you’ll install the brake caliber bracket onto the rotor. Install the bolts through the back of the bracket. Take the brake pads and slide them onto the bracket on both sides.
23) Now take the caliper and flip it over and onto the pads. Watch the small boots on the bracket to make sure you don’t damage them and make sure they line up with the holes in the caliper. Then take the slide pins and reinsert them through the caliper into the boot on the bracket. Before you fully tighten them, make sure they’re installed straight by giving them a few turns with an allen wrench.
24) Then go ahead and fully tighten them and the rest of the hardware on the caliper and A-arms. Don’t forget to reinstall the washer and nut onto the the tie rod end as well.
25) Now you’ll reinstall the wheel and tire. Once you’ve completely tightened all the hardware on the wheel, you’ll follow the exact same steps to install a Rhino 2.0 axle on the other side.
That’s all there is to it! Make sure you check out the rest of our awesome PRO R accessories and we’ll see you on the trail.
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