How to Install a Gen 3 GDP Portal Gear Lift on a Polaris RZR XP 1000

Length: 20:27
Created: March 7, 2019

Transcript

When you get your GDP portals from SuperATV, the first thing you’re going to do is make sure the reduction number, which is on the front where the caliper mounting bracket’s going to go, matches the one underneath the drain plug. We’re doing a 15% install today.

The first thing we’re going to do is remove all four wheels and tires. The next step is to remove the brake caliper by removing this bolt and this one as well. Once you remove the caliper, if you have a brake scraper, this it the time you’re going to want to remove it. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Then, remove the castle nut and hub. Remove the tie rod from the spindle by removing this nut. Remove the lower A-arm from the spindle by removing the pinch bolt. Now remove the top ball joint pinch bolt. Remove the bolt, then the spindle. Now repeat those steps for the opposite side.

Moving onto the rear, we’re going to remove the lower radius arm by removing this bolt. Just pick up on the trailing arm and push the bolt out. Remove the brake line cover off the top of the trailing arm by removing these two 10 mm bolts. Remove the brake caliper by removing these two bolts. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Then remove the castle nut and the hub. Remove the upper radius arm by removing this bolt. Remove the four bolts holding the bearing carrier to the trailing arm. Now, remove the bearing carrier. Now repeat the steps for the opposite side.

Now that we’ve got everything disassembled, we’re going to go ahead and install the rear backing plate. We’re going to use the M10x80 long allen headed screw and the M10x25 short screw here. When installing the backing plate, you want to be sure that the slot for the RSL is facing upwards. Line up the rear backing plate with these four holes. Install the rear brake caliper mounting bracket and ensure that the the curved portion of the bracket matches up with the curved portion of the box. We’ll just want to snug the bolt down until we get the portal installed on the machine, and then we’ll want to go back and torque these two bolts here.

It’s time to install the portal to the backing plate, but first we’re going to use the provided thread locker and apply a little bit to the threads of the axle. When installing the portal, the best way to go about it is to get it started in the splines of the drive gear, and then we’re going to go ahead and start our recessed nut on the axle. Then we’ll use our M12x120 mm bolts and insert them through the box, then through the backing plate. Grab our M12 lock nut. Once we’ve got all our nuts started, we can go ahead and tighten in an X pattern starting at the top right, moving our way down.

It’s time to go ahead and reinstall the radius arms. Be sure that the top one uses the nut that doesn’t have the flang on it and the lower’s going to use the flanged. Once you’ve got your nuts started, you’re going to want to go ahead and tighten your radius arms. Then we’re going to come back and tighten the portal to the backing plate. Alright, we’ve got all of our hardware tightened.

Now, we’re going to go back and make sure that we torque this bolt as well as this bolt. So we’re going to set our torque wrench to 60 ft lb and we’re going to tighten this bolt first. We’re going to come over here and tighten this one. We’re going to tighten the recessed nut. One of the awesome things about the Gen 3 is you can get a full sized socket. It doesn’t have to be a thin wall anymore and torque to 110 ft lb. We’re going to install our recessed nut cap, making sure that our gasket is sitting on the cap prior to installation. Take a few screws, push them through, get it through the gasket, and go ahead and install it to the front of the portal. Go ahead and tighten them. It doesn’t have to be super tight, just make sure they’re not going to back out on you. On the Gen 3s, this acts as a dust cover. On the Gen 2s and Gen 1s, this was actually what sealed the box. Now the box seals on the drive gear.

We’re going to install our drain plugs to our portal. One thing you want to note: On the Gen 3s, we went ahead and upgraded to a different drain plug that seals with an O-ring seal instead of using Teflon tape and we also added a magnet. Let’s move onto the next step, which is to press our studs into our hub rotor assembly.

There’s many methods of doing this, but we’re going to head out to the press. You can press the wheel studs in to accommodate many lug patterns, but today we’re going to be using the Polaris pattern, so we’re going to use the outer holes. Use a press to press the studs in, being sure that they fully seat.

Install the hub rotor assembly to the output shaft of the portal, making sure that your fins are facing toward the front of your machine. Now we’re going to take our castle nut and install it. Then we’re going to take our provided 41 mm socket and tighten this up. You want to make sure that you tighten it at least to 300 ft. lb. This impact will go well above that, so we’re just going to make sure that our cotter pin holes lined up after we tighten it. Looks like our cotter pin hole’s lined up there. We’re going to take our cotter pin and drop it in the hole.

We’re going to install the adapter plate, but first we need to remove the factory one from the brake caliper. We’re going to start by removing this set screw and we’re going to depress the factory mounting plate, remove the brake pads, remove the plate, and then you want to make sure your boots don’t come loose from the caliper. We’re going to go ahead and remove the hardware out of our adapter plate provided in the kit. We’re going to install it to the caliper with the long side going into the holes. Take the brake pad that was up against the piston and slide it on. Once we get the brake pads on there, we’re going to go ahead and reinstall our set screw. We’re not going to want to tighten it until we get the caliper mounted up. That way, we can make sure we have the right adjustment.

We’re going to go ahead and install the brake caliper. If you need a little bit of extra slack, you can undo the brake line from the trailing arm and get enough to get it bolted on. Now that we’ve got our brake caliper tightened, we’re going to tighten the set screw, but we want to make sure that we have just a little bit of drag on the rotor. So what you do is just turn the rotor and tighten it until it just barely lets the pads right on the rotor, just barely making contact. Right there’s good. And that’s all you gotta do.

If you had to remove your brake line from the trailing arm to get the caliper to fit, go ahead and attach that before heading to the front.

We’re going to remove the brake line from the A-arm. We’ve got SuperATV A-Arms installed, so we’re just going to remove our two allen screws holding them on. Then just let the caliper hang out of the way. We’re going to install the front backing plate. When installing it, you want to be sure that the curve portion here where the steering arm bolts on is facing toward the rear of the machine. We’re going to slide it up on our ball joint using our factory hardware. And then we’re going to take our lower and do the exact same thing. Something to note is on your ball joint, you’ll have a groove. That’s where the bolt’s going to need to go through, so you want to make sure that it’s centered whenever you install it to the backing plate. Now we’re going to go ahead and tighten the ball joint bolts.

We’re going to install the steering arm to the backing plate, making sure that we line these holes up as well as this hole with the hole in the backing plate, and then the two here. We’re going to use our M12x40 hardware. When installing your bolts, be sure that the head of the bolt is toward the inside going outward and take your nut. Then before we tighten them, take one of your bolts that goes through the box and stick it through this hole here just to make sure everything stays lined up whenever you go to tighten. Apply the provided threadlocker to the threads of the axle. Now, install the portal.

Slide it on the axle, grab our recessed nut, and just hand tighten the recessed nut to hold the box in place until we get our bolts. For these positions here, here, and here: we’re going to use the longer non-flange head bolt with a washer. We need to remove this bolt in order to install our caliper mounting bracket. Fully tighten all the hardware and torque these two bolts. Now we’re going to tighten the recessed nut and torque to 110 ft. lb.

We’re going to install the recessed nut cap to the front exactly the same as the rear, make sure your gaskets are on there with the screws, and go ahead and install it. Once again, we’re going to install our hub rotor assembly on the front. It installs just like the rear. Just make sure the fins are facing forward. Install your castle nut, same as we did on the rear. Then install your cotter pin. We’re going to install the drain plugs. It’s going to be exactly the same as the rear.

Go ahead and reinstall your tie rod, and you will have to make some adjustments. We’re going to remove the brake line from the caliper by removing this bolt. You’re going to want to make sure you have a drain pin and then you’re going to want to remove your hardware from the factory brake line. Then repeat the steps for the opposite side.

We’re going to remove the front brake lines from the master cylinder. The first thing we’re going to do is disconnect the plug and then start removing the banjo bolt. Once you’ve got your banjo bolt disconnected, go ahead and pull the factory brake lines out. Then we’ll get our new ones installed. We’re going to install our new brake lines to our banjo bolt starting with the passenger side. We’re going to get one of our sealing washers and reinstall it. Then install the driver’s side and add another sealing washer. Then we’re going to reinstall it to the master cylinder.

Before reattaching the brake lines to the calipers, you want to take your driver’s side caliper and exchange it out with your passenger side caliper. That way, the bleeders are facing toward the top.

Now we’re going to reinstall the calipers to the new caliper mounting brackets included with the kit. We’re going to remove the cap from the reservoir and make sure that we fill it to the max line before we start bleeding the brakes. We got the reservoir filled out, so now we’re going to go ahead and bleed the brakes. We’ve got somebody up in the machine. They’re going to pump the brakes up for us. We’re going to tell them to hold the brake pedal down and then we’re going to open up the bleeder valve. When you’re bleeding the brakes, you want to make sure you start on the side farthest away from the master cylinder. In this case, it’s going to be the passenger side. You’re going to have somebody pump the brakes five times, hold the pedal down, and you’re going to bleed them.

So go ahead and pump the brake five times Kristen. You’re going to crack the bleeder and you’re going to continue doing this until it’s straight brake fluid that’s coming from the bleeder on the passenger side. Then you’re going to repeat the steps for the driver’s side.

We’re going to fill the portal box up with oil. We recommend that you use 80W-90 house brand. What you’re going to want to do is put the tip of the oil jug in there and squeeze it until you get a steady stream of oil running out. Now you’re going to take your fill plug and install it into the hole.

Now repeat the steps for the other three portals. Put your wheels and tires on and you’re ready to ride.

So that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s GDP Portals on this RZR 1000. For more information on these portals or any of SuperATV’s great products, give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and have a great day.