Length: 16:37
Created: June 23, 2023
What’s up guys, today we’re going to be installing these Atlas Pro A-arms. But before we head to the shop, I wanted to give you a couple of quick features. Right off the bat, when you look at these Atlas Pro A-arms, you can tell these things are straight beef—38-millimeter tubing, which is an inch and a half in diameter, fully adjustable pivot blocks, and a wide variety of heavy-duty ball joint options. So, let’s head on over to the shop and get these bad boys installed.
First thing we’re going to do is remove the wheel and tire. Now we’re going to go ahead and remove our cotter pin from our axle and then our castle nut. Use a 27-millimeter socket to remove the castle nut. Make sure you remove the washer.
Next, we’re going to come to our tie rod end and go ahead and remove our hardware. As you can see, this machine has some SuperATV products on it already, so the removal process is going to be just a little bit different between ours and OE, but for the most part, everything’s going to be the same. The only minor differences may be the brake line hardware, maybe the tie rod end hardware, depending on if you have OEM tie rods or SuperATV. Now we’re going to go ahead and remove the tie rod from the knuckle. Move our hardware, and I like to just take whatever hardware I may have secured my tie rod and just fasten it right back to where it goes.
We’ll go ahead and grab a 10-millimeter socket to remove this bolt that’s securing our brake line. Then I like to just go ahead and put that bolt right back where it goes. Now we’re going to go ahead and remove all of our brake line hardware. Again, our hardware may be just a little bit different than yours. This machine is already equipped with a set of SuperATV A-arms. Once all our brake line hardware is removed, I like to just take my brake caliper and slide it right up on top of the differential, slide it up out of the way, just like so.
Now we’re going to grab a hold of our hub, pull it off, and set it aside. Whenever you pull your hub off, make sure you pull your washer. It puts pressure on the wheel bearing there. We’re going to come down here to our lower ball joint hardware and remove the cotter pin. Then we’re going to remove our castle nut. I don’t remove mine all the way; I just run it down to about here. We’re going to get two hammers and smack them right here on our arm until it separates. Once it separates, just remove your castle nut the rest of the way, pull your lower A-arm off, and let it hang.
Now we’re going to remove our sway bar link hardware, slide our link out of our arm. We’ll just go ahead and take our nut and put it right back onto our sway bar link. Then we’re going to grab a strap, hook it up as high as we can, lift up on the arm here, remove our shock bolt, and just like that. I like to go ahead and put my shock hardware right back into my shock, so I know exactly where it goes. We’ll just kind of tie our shock up out of the way as high as we can get it. Lift up on our arm so we can get our axle removed. Once our axle is removed, I like to lay it on the tie rod. You never want to let an axle hang, and this also gives us a really good spot to get in there to get to our upper ball joint hardware.
So we’ll just go ahead and remove the cotter pin. We have our cotter pin here, and then we’re going to put our socket, and I like to let the steering arm bury itself out onto the A-arm. Crack that loose, run it down, and then we’re going to smack it right here. As you can see, it separated. What we’re going to do is just go ahead and remove the castle nut off, get right back on. Now we’re going to remove all our A-arm hardware. I’m going to remove this plastic actuator cover here; it just makes it so much easier to get on the head of the bolt. I like to be able to use an impact to get in here and buzz the hardware out. If you don’t remove this actuator cover, you’re going to be stuck using a wrench or a short socket.
Once our nuts are removed, go ahead and remove our hardware. Now we’re going to remove our upper arm hardware. I’m going to crack the hardware loose and then use my electric ratchet to speed it up a little bit. Once our nuts are removed, we can go ahead and remove the bolts. Once the bolts are removed, you can remove your upper A-arm.
Now that we have our A-arms removed from our machine, we’re going to go ahead and remove the bushings out of our arms. I like to take an extension, slide it in here to the sleeve, and tap it right out. Then I grab a big flathead screwdriver, angle it in sideways, and tap down until I can get this bushing to come out.
Now we’re ready to start prepping our A-arms for installation. You can reuse your OEM bushings with the SuperATV A-arms, but I highly advise you to buy a bushing kit from SuperATV—it’s well worth it. We’re going to take our bushings and slide them into the arms here. It can be a tight fit, so I use a dead blow to tap them right in. Do this on both sides of the arm. Then grab one of our sleeves, put it right in. Next, we’re going to grab our grease zerks and thread them into our A-arms. This is on the lower here. Just thread it right in to get it started and fully tighten it.
One more thing that’s great about the SuperATV Atlas Pro A-arm is that it’s fully adjustable. On the upper arm, this is what we call a pivot block—this is where you adjust your camber. If your tire is leaning out (positive camber) or leaning in (negative camber), you can make adjustments on these arms to correct that. For every two complete 360-degree rotations of this pivot block, that’s going to equal one degree. For example, if your tire is laid in two degrees negative and you want it to be zero, you would do four complete rotations. If it’s one degree, you do two complete rotations to bring that tire to a straight-up-and-down position. Just loosen these jam nuts and thread these out, ensuring they’re equal side to side.
Now we’re going to grab our lower A-arm and install it on the machine. Grab your hardware, and we’ll start our nuts. Next, grab your upper A-arm hardware and start the nuts. Then grab your knuckle and slide it onto the upper ball joint. Fully tighten your hardware.
Now we’ll put our cotter pin in. Grab our axle, slide it back through the wheel bearing. Cut the shock loose, let it drop down, and reinstall it into the arm. You can upgrade the lower ball joint from SuperATV. Order these arms with the pre-installed upper and the kit will also come with the lower that you just press into your knuckle. Fully tighten the lower castle nut.
Make sure you don’t forget your bearing washer. Put it on, grab your hub, slide it into position. Grab your brake caliper, reposition it, and fully tighten the brake caliper hardware.
Utilize the factory brake line clip and hardware that comes in the kit. Attach the sway bar link. Put the axle nut washer on and fully tighten it. Reinstall the cotter key.
Reinstall your tire, grab a 19mm socket, and fully tighten your tie rod end hardware. Repeat all these steps on the opposite side. Make sure all your hardware is fully tightened. That’s all there is to it to install SuperATV’s Atlas Pro high clearance forward offset A-arms on this Kawasaki KRX 1000. Be sure to check the description below to pick yours up today. While you’re there, drop a like, comment, and subscribe. Thanks for watching, we’ll catch you on the next one.
