
Around here, we like to say that stock axles are for stock rides. If you really want to dig into deep mud, dominate rocky terrain, race at high speeds, or turn bigger wheels, you need the best UTV or ATV axles possible.
Most factory axles aren’t made to stand up to harsh off-road conditions. They’re not durable enough—and nothing ruins a ride quite like a broken axle.
Instead of risking your weekend ride and being forced to find a fix trailside, upgrade to a heavy-duty axle before you ever leave your driveway. You’ll be able to ride like never before thanks to the newfound confidence your heavy-duty axles provide.

“Heavy duty” is one of those terms that gets thrown around a lot, but what does it mean—especially in relationship to axles?
Heavy-duty axles are designed with the strength and durability required to handle heavier loads—whether that’s massive torque or the demands of insane aftermarket upgrades. Most use high strength steel alloys like chromoly steel, which helps to keep them from breaking in high-stress situations.
Many heavy-duty axles are also heat treated, which gives them higher strength when it comes to twisting. Heat treatments should help your axles power through instead of breaking.

And most heavy-duty axles are made bigger than OEM. The shaft and CV joints are often bigger to support more intense rides and hardcore upgrades.
In short, heavy-duty axles are bigger than OEM, made of tougher materials, and built to last through insane abuse.

If your axles are going bad, they’ll tell you. You won’t get a notification on your phone or a blinking light on your dash, but there are some obvious signs.

The actual bar on your axle normally isn’t the problem. Most of the time, the culprit is the CV (continuously variable) joint. One end of the axle connects to the transmission and the other connects to the wheel hub. You’ll find a CV joint at both of these connections.
CV joints make sure that the power coming from the engine is moved to the wheels at a steady rate regardless of the articulation angle.
To function correctly, CV joints have to stay lubricated. If something happens to the CV boot, the joint can lose lubrication and quickly become damaged.
So what are the signs of a busted CV joint?
The first thing you may notice is noise. Damaged axles can create a clicking or popping sound, especially on tight turns. This could signal a worn-out CV joint. It’s making noise because it doesn’t have enough lubrication—which could lead to your axles binding up.
Humming or buzzing sounds can also indicate CV issues. Especially if the sound gets louder when you’re accelerating and it seems to be unrelated to the type of terrain you’re riding on. This can mean that your CV is in bad shape, leading to grinding and loads of damage.

Another sign? Vibration. You may not be able to hear the hum or buzz, but you’ll be able to feel it. Improperly aligned CV joints will vibrate from the drivetrain up through the steering wheel, giving you a clear sign that something is big-time wrong with your axles.
Things can get even more severe. If you lose power to just one wheel, it’s pretty likely that axle is completely ruined and you’re going to have to limp back to the trailer.
If you’re experiencing anything like these symptoms, it’s time for a replacement. And if you want to avoid these problems altogether, you should upgrade from your OEM axles stat.

When it comes to replacement axles, SuperATV should be your first choice. From ADR Axles through Rhino X300 Axles, we’ve got the right axle for you.
Need more information on how to tell if your UTV or ATV axle is broken (and what to next), you can check out our handy explanation.

Our ADR Axles are designed as an affordable replacement for OEM, but they’ll last longer and ride smoother. They’re built with chromoly steel and beefed-up CV joints. They’re an affordable, smooth-running axle at a price that makes sense.
ADR Axles:

SuperATV’s Rhino Brand Axles feature maximized CV and shaft sizes, giving you a major improvement over OEM performance. They’re made with 4340 chromoly steel for impressive longevity and the synthetic grease keeps the CV joints cool ride after ride.
Rhino Brand Axles:

Are you ready for an upgrade instead of a replacement? Consider our Rhino 2.0 Axles. They’re our most loved axle for a reason. Rhino 2.0 Axles are built to handle every terrain and riding style. They’re at least twice as strong as OEM axles—and we’ve tested them to prove it.

Rhino 2.0 Axles:

Are you an axle’s worst nightmare? Have you busted every CV you’ve ever met? You need Rhino X300 Axles. The 300M alloy steel shaft flexes and twists to absorb impacts. If you’re a rough rider, these axles are for you.
We make the CVs with 300M and 4340 alloy steel components and maximized the CV, spider, and cage size for higher strength and improved articulation angles. We’re so confident in these axles that we back them with a 3-year warranty.
No matter how you ride, SuperATV has an axle for you.
X300 Axles:

Installing heavy-duty axles isn’t more complicated than installing normal axles—but that doesn’t mean it’s easy.
ATVs and UTVs generally use plunger-type axles, which are generally fairly simple to install. Before you install your new axles, inspect them closely to make sure there’s no damage to the axle, steering knuckle, or diff. This may not seem important, but it can save you a ton of work later.

Before you insert the new axle, you should apply a bit of grease to the splines. This makes it easier to install into the diff and the wheel hub.
Another piece of advice? Keep all the parts you’ll need for reinstallation in a safe place. There is nothing that will make you want to throw your tools more than trying to remember where in the HECK you left that castle nut!

Looking for a deep dive in how to install a Rhino 2.0 Axle? Braden walks through the entire process to install Rhino 2.0 front axles on a Pro R in depth. It’s not a universal install (of course) but you’ll get a great idea of the steps required to install any axle.

When it comes to choosing an axle, it’s all about how you ride.
If you’re dedicated to that racing lifestyle and looking for the best you can get, you should invest in X300 Axles.
Are you serious about performance, but not ready to shell out the cash for the top tier axle? Rhino 2.0 Axles are some of the best axles you can get. When it comes to performance, durability, and value, you can’t beat Rhino 2.0.
And if you’re looking for an upgrade that won’t let you down, Rhino Axles will do the trick. They easily dominate OEM axles and will keep your ATV or UTV on the trail way longer than stock.
ADR Axles trump OEM on value—but they’re better than OEM too. They’re made with stronger materials and better CV joints.
Now how you ride and how you want to ride and you’ll have no problem finding the perfect axles at SuperATV.

2 Comments
Do you have the front cv axles for 1986 Honda Fourtrax 350 4×4? The original numbers are 42200-HA7-671 and 42300-HA7-671. Thanks.
Hey Kristy,
Unfortunately, we don’t offer axles for your machine!