
The first time you go to a new pizza place, you always get something safe. Pepperoni’s everywhere you go, so just get that, right? But then you’re missing out on the Korean BBQ mac and cheese pizza that would have changed your life!
A-arms work the same way! You’re probably used to seeing high-clearance A-arms. They’re a little stronger and come with a little more ground clearance, but otherwise, they’re like stock arms.
But A-arms can do so much more than that!
So before you replace your stock A-arms with standard high-clearance A-arms, check out our complete guide to all the different A-arms we have to offer, from bog standard to offset Sidewinders.
Let’s start by looking at what kind of tubed A-arms we have. Tubed A-arms are generally lighter than their boxed counterparts but usually not quite as strong.
But the main difference is the way they look. Tubed A-arms give you a more traditional look, while boxed A-arms give you a more aggressive look.
High-clearance A-arms are our most normal A-arms, but they’re anything but stock.
The raised bends provide additional ground clearance for your machine—usually between 1.5” and 2”. The extra ground clearance doesn’t raise your machine. High-clearance A-arms are just bent to stay out of the way of more rocks and bumps.
The idea is to create a kind of tunnel under your machine where obstacles can fly right under you without smashing into your suspension. It works better if you use front and rear high-clearance A-arms together.
On top of high-clearance bends, they’re made with bigger tubing than stock. They’re really stinking tough.

Atlas Pro A-Arms are the big kahunas of tubed A-arms. They’re just like our standard high-clearance A-arms, but they’re made with 1.5” x .138” DOM wall steel tubing. So the diameter of the tubing is 1.5”, and the thickness of the walls is 0.138” or about 1/8”.
Which is really dang thick!
It’s almost like we turned a bumper into an A-arm, and it’s a difference you can see easily. These beasts are huge! They’re the toughest tubed A-arms you can get anywhere, and you’d have one heck of a story to tell if you ever managed to do something crazy enough to break them.

Now we’re moving on to boxed A-arms. As the name implies, they don’t use tubes in their construction. Instead, they use 1/8” plates made from an advanced steel alloy. But they’re not just hollow boxes—they use an internal structure of metal plates to reinforce them even more.
We have two kinds of boxed A-arms that differ in style: standard boxed A-arms and Sidewinder A-arms.
Our standard boxed A-arms are like the boxy interpretation of our standard tubed A-arms. That is to say, they fill the same role as stock, just with way more strength and a high clearance bend.
Plus, they just look damn tough. Nothing beats the brutalist angles of a boxed A-arm at exuding sheer beefiness.
The first thing anybody thinks when they see them is, “damn, those must be tough.” They won’t notice the extra ground clearance they give your machine or the adjustable pivot blocks for perfect camber, but it’s got those too!
And what you can’t see is the interior metal plates hiding behind the TIG-welded seems that makes them even more robust.

If our standard boxed A-arms are like a tank, then our Sidewinder A-arms are like a stealth bomber—They’re sleek, powerful, and sexy as hell.
And that’s really what they’ve got that our standard arms don’t. Those head-turning good looks are as iconic as an SR-71 Blackbird (we know, not actually a bomber), and just as fast (almost).
They’re made with the same techniques—TIG welded and inner gusseted advanced alloy steel—they just make use of a tapered front edge and riveted “SATV” logo to maximize their coolishness.
For pure style points, this is the best damn set of A-arms on the market, period.

Almost every vehicle we make A-arms for comes with an offset variety. But what is an offset, and why do you want it?
Offset A-arms stretch forward to make your wheelbase just a little bit longer—1.5 to 2 inches longer, to be exact. The main purpose is to give you room for bigger tires without a lift. And it can make a huge difference.
Some UTVs can fit up to 4” larger tires thanks to this offset. It’s pretty impressive.
We make rear offset A-arms, too, but it’s important to remember that the rear of your machine can probably already fit bigger tires than the front. So if you want bigger tires all the way around, you’d want to start with front offset A-arms.

If you’re shopping for suspension upgrades for your Defender, you’ve probably stared down the barrel of a BFT kit and thought, “What the heck is this?” It’s got A-arms, but it also comes with a bunch of other hardware. It gives you room for bigger tires, but it’s not really a lift kit either. It’s something in between.
BFT kits are designed to give you room for the biggest effing tires possible with the smallest lift possible. And they blow standard offset A-arms out of the water.
The most offset A-arm we’ve got for the Defender increases your wheelbase by 2” to make room for up to 32” tires.
Our Defender BFT kit can fit up to 34” tires with just 2” of lift.
It’s pretty dang impressive.

All of our A-arms are built with adjustable pivot blocks or adjustable heim joints so you can set your camber manually.
Why do you want to adjust your camber? The short answer is that upgrades you make to your machine can screw up your camber, which can impact performance and wear out your tires unevenly. The long answer is in our guide to camber adjustment.
If you’re not interested in adjusting camber, then don’t worry about it! Our arms come adjusted to stock specs, so you can throw them on and hit the trail right away.
Oh and the header for this section is a lie. We have a few A-arms that aren’t adjustable, but you have to click on “non-adjustable pivot blocks” to get them, so we know you didn’t buy them on accident.
That’s right! You buy a set of A-arms from SuperATV or an authorized dealer, and we’ll cover it for as long as you own it.
And we’re not just talking about covering it for manufacturing defects. We’re talking about when you smash into that stump on the side of the trail that wads up your suspension five or ten years from now.
You break it, we replace it. So go nuts.

We’ve got such a wide variety of A-arms because there are so many different kinds of riders out there. If we just made one and said, “This is the best one! everybody get this one!” most of you would be unhappy with it.
That’s why we have the widest variety of A-arms for the widest variety of machines. No matter what your ride, how you ride, and where you ride, we’ve got A-arms that can make every adventure just a little better.
So check out all our A-arms. Maybe it’s time to ditch the pepperoni and find a new favorite flavor.
4 Comments
I have super atv white 1.5 a arms for a 2014 Polaris rzr eps 900 xp and the end bent from something,knocked the ball joint out and caused more damage,any kind of coverage on that for me
Hi Greg, sorry to hear you’re having trouble! For warranty questions, please contact customer service.
Customer Service Email & Phone Numbers
Toll Free Phone: 855.743.3427
Phone: 812.574.7777
Text: 318.666.3419
Retail Contact: sales@superatv.com
I purchased a Polaris Ranger xp 1000 pro star with your Arms already installed. I’m needing info on replacement. Where is part numbers or identification on A-arms?
Hi Ray,
Give us a call to get assistance from a representative! 812.574.7777